One thing people might not know about Mr Hobby and Tamiya rattlecan clears like TS-13 and TS-80 is that they can absolutely reactivate your paints (lacquers especially) to expose the primer underneath, and it happens INSTANTLY, before your eyes. You can minimise this with careful misting but it can and will still happen.

What you're seeing here is the Mr Hobby Superclear gloss applied before we get into the decals, and it was absolutely done with a mist coat. BUT, I was full expecting this to happen and with a model where weathering is a given - like the Millennium Falcon - we're treating it as a feature, not a bug. If I think it's too bad in places I can build the white back up with the airbrush or some drybrushing, but the truth is that it fits in with the next lot of techniques.

If you think I'm wrong and have messed up, let me know in the comments.

After my last post I received some amazing advice and words of encouragement. Wanted to share this as quick as possible. I was able to create a V fin Bigger, Better, Stronger than the original.

I made this using uv resin which I poured into a mold that I made out of clay. After sanding, adjusting and refining I landed on a piece that I am very pleased with. Next up is repainting the head.

Thank you everyone for your support.

全部噴完了

可以組合啦

So after adding some more white in the center section with the airbrush, I've drybrushed in some more of the Vallejo Game Colour Azure Blue along the edges to blend the scratch, and blended that in with my thumb. A little more white was drybrushed in too.

It's not perfect but it's close enough and should hold up once the grid decal is across the whole exhaust.

Tried to paint up a glowing effect on the engine using some Vallejo Game Colour on tamiya white. Almost got there, but of course the Vallejo got a scratch. That gets addressed in the next post.

Hello and thank you for checking out my progress post! This week was a fun one to talk about, as interesting as disassembly is, it wasn't that though. 

This week I scanned the foot of the Kshatriya using my homemade 3D scanner! I also disassembled the model entirely, but that's boring to look at and read. Even though it was most of the week we're not going to focus on it. 

The reason I wanted to scan the foot is for later when modeling the base I want to place the door in 3D space, make indents in the base to help position the final model better. I still need to measure the foot so I can scale it properly in Blender later however.

Now you may be asking "Scott, if you have to measure the foot entirely and you're going to use the foot to make very simplified shapes for cutouts in the base, then what's the point?" Or you might be wondering "Did he use a 3D scanner for this to justify having spent so much time in making it and it's cool to talk about?" 😏

So first off, this scanner uses photogrammetry to remake the shape. That means that it takes tons and tons of pictures at different angles to recreate it. Meaning the first step is spray the foot with some scanner spray, which is just going to give it more texture that can be tracked by the software later. After that I set it on the scanner stand and set it to take a bunch of pictures.

After I've got entirely too many pictures, I run them through a quick photo adjustment to up the contrast a ton so the scanner software can better see and track regions. 

Finally I import all the photos to the software, align the photos, then generate the mesh. This process takes several hours since the software has a lot of photos to go through. I think the final mesh came out looking pretty good though! I'm happy with the level of detail I got out of it, and this will be very helpful later.

Outside of the scanning I definitely needed to do, I disassembled the rest of the model down to individual pieces. This is so I can group them by color for painting later. It's annoying to build and then disassemble but it's an important step for painting because I can skip a few pieces that aren't visible, any shortcuts I can take are good! 

There were a few pieces that were difficult to get apart, like the shoulder component pictured here. There were just no edges to grab onto and use as leverage. Thankfully I finally got it out though. Any longer and I would have drilled a hole in the back so I could push it out 😅.

Now that that's all done, I can move onto the next step. Normally this would be painting but... Well more on that next week!

Finally seeing My color choices on some spoons to ensure my colors work together.

Primers Used

1. Gaianotes Evo Surfacer - GS 02 White
2. Mr. Surfaver 1000 - Gray
3. Mr. Finshing Surfaver - Black

Colors

1. Gaianotes 017 - Purple Violet
2. Gaianotes 019 - Lavender
3. NAZCA Color - 014 Mandarin Yellow
4. Gaianotes 002 - Pure Black
5. Gaianotes 001 - Pure White
6. Gaianotes 121 - Star Bright Silver

Next Steps

1. Start Painting!

Was able to squeeze in a little time today after work.

Cut out the pieces for the extra bits. So tedious 😩 glad I didn’t opt for double the bits.

Painting with white and later i will add the details for tubing and metal parts weathering and others

Bit of a placeholder update this time. Barely had the time to do anything. Did get the shoulder detailing going pretty well, don’t know if I’ll add a whole lot more.