Hi, I didn’t have much time but managed to assemble the back seat base. It consists of quite a lot pieces including metal springs for the passenger seat frame. I like that there are also optional parts - like the grab handles for the passenger. I think I’ll go for the wooden one. There are also two different types of the panniers. The metal Packtasche and leather bags. I like the leather ones because there are even the stitching lines moulded on them and the kit contains padlocks which can be assembled as locked or open. They are printed separately so will be fun to paint and weather them.

I’ve glued in the back seat base. Only the clamps holding the panniers in place are dry-fitted. Seeing the result I couldn’t resist dry-fitting the rear wheel.

Small tweaks happening on the model — added supports for the weapon mount, and I also picked up a little soldier figure to go with this armored vehicle. 🛠️🔧🪖🚙

Part 6

i managed to finish this step pretty nicely.

全部噴完了

可以組合啦

After my last post I received some amazing advice and words of encouragement. Wanted to share this as quick as possible. I was able to create a V fin Bigger, Better, Stronger than the original.

I made this using uv resin which I poured into a mold that I made out of clay. After sanding, adjusting and refining I landed on a piece that I am very pleased with. Next up is repainting the head.

Thank you everyone for your support.

This is a good milestone for the build, outside of the Composite Shield Booster, I finished base coating and detail painting the legs today, so that marks the Main Woundwort Frame being done with that stage of the build~
With that set up, I can get more into planning out the waterslides for it, and work into that process next. From there I can do a joint test assembly, see what needs to be tightened up, and then start prepping for matte coat and main assembly of the Base Woundwort~

I'm very excited to start getting pieces together outside of the little odds and ends here, I've been looking forward to that since I started getting the first prints x'D
And not to exclude, I'll also be getting into the CSB priming/base coating~

~Pipes

July 21, 2026. Over the past week, I worked on the 3D-printed crew figures for my Polish K2 Black Panther build (from Glowel Miniatures). Since I primarily build tanks and aircraft, painting miniatures is a fun challenge, and I took some time to experiment with new techniques. ​For the flesh tones, I started with AK11603 Human Flesh Tone and experimented with subtle tinting using Vallejo Light Rust Wash (74.505).

I originally tried adding painted white pupils, but they looked oversized, so I removed them in favour of subtle eye-socket shading with Vallejo Saddle Brown (70.940).

After noticing the headgear was missing its headset microphone, I scratch-built one using 0.2mm lead wire, then painted the helmet in Vallejo Black Grey (70.862) and Italeri Flat Rubber (4861AP), and sealed it with AK Ultra Matte Varnish.

For the tanker suit/overall uniform, I used a zenithal shading approach airbrushing Tamiya LP-60 NATO Black followed by a white zenithal spray to establish shadows on the fabric folds. I then applied AK 11144 Emerald to match the real Polish uniform tint, mixing in white for high-point highlights and Black Grey for shadows.

​Tiny details like the Polish flag on the arm were painted using Vallejo White and Flat Red, with the rank/name patches picked out in Mr Hobby 320 Dark Green. After a pin wash using Tamiya Black Panel Line Accent Colour (cleaned up with spirit and swabs) and a coat of AK Ultra Matte, the commander figure was complete.

The commander figure is now finished and test-fitted in his hatch position behind the .50 cal mount! Work on the second crewmember is currently underway!

One thing people might not know about Mr Hobby and Tamiya rattlecan clears like TS-13 and TS-80 is that they can absolutely reactivate your paints (lacquers especially) to expose the primer underneath, and it happens INSTANTLY, before your eyes. You can minimise this with careful misting but it can and will still happen.

What you're seeing here is the Mr Hobby Superclear gloss applied before we get into the decals, and it was absolutely done with a mist coat. BUT, I was full expecting this to happen and with a model where weathering is a given - like the Millennium Falcon - we're treating it as a feature, not a bug. If I think it's too bad in places I can build the white back up with the airbrush or some drybrushing, but the truth is that it fits in with the next lot of techniques.

If you think I'm wrong and have messed up, let me know in the comments.

Hello and thank you for checking out my progress post! This week was a fun one to talk about, as interesting as disassembly is, it wasn't that though. 

This week I scanned the foot of the Kshatriya using my homemade 3D scanner! I also disassembled the model entirely, but that's boring to look at and read. Even though it was most of the week we're not going to focus on it. 

The reason I wanted to scan the foot is for later when modeling the base I want to place the door in 3D space, make indents in the base to help position the final model better. I still need to measure the foot so I can scale it properly in Blender later however.

Now you may be asking "Scott, if you have to measure the foot entirely and you're going to use the foot to make very simplified shapes for cutouts in the base, then what's the point?" Or you might be wondering "Did he use a 3D scanner for this to justify having spent so much time in making it and it's cool to talk about?" 😏

So first off, this scanner uses photogrammetry to remake the shape. That means that it takes tons and tons of pictures at different angles to recreate it. Meaning the first step is spray the foot with some scanner spray, which is just going to give it more texture that can be tracked by the software later. After that I set it on the scanner stand and set it to take a bunch of pictures.

After I've got entirely too many pictures, I run them through a quick photo adjustment to up the contrast a ton so the scanner software can better see and track regions. 

Finally I import all the photos to the software, align the photos, then generate the mesh. This process takes several hours since the software has a lot of photos to go through. I think the final mesh came out looking pretty good though! I'm happy with the level of detail I got out of it, and this will be very helpful later.

Outside of the scanning I definitely needed to do, I disassembled the rest of the model down to individual pieces. This is so I can group them by color for painting later. It's annoying to build and then disassemble but it's an important step for painting because I can skip a few pieces that aren't visible, any shortcuts I can take are good! 

There were a few pieces that were difficult to get apart, like the shoulder component pictured here. There were just no edges to grab onto and use as leverage. Thankfully I finally got it out though. Any longer and I would have drilled a hole in the back so I could push it out 😅.

Now that that's all done, I can move onto the next step. Normally this would be painting but... Well more on that next week!