i managed to finish this step pretty nicely.

This is actually my very first time trying to recreate realistic titanium heat staining using the SNP Titanium Color Set. It definitely has a learning curve, and I’m still experimenting with how each transparent color interacts with the titanium base.

Every pass with the airbrush teaches me a little more about controlling subtle transitions instead of just adding color.

I’m far from mastering it, but that’s exactly what makes this Miura project so rewarding. Every new technique becomes another step forward.

Constructive feedback is always welcome. That’s one of the best parts of this amazing community.

Not much time at the bench this week. Ive only managed to add the speedo, and other dials to cockpit and to get the main parts ready for furst couple of coats of clear.

Last night was one of the biggest milestones of this Miura build. After weeks of preparation, testing and refinement, the body finally received its K306 color over the Silver Sealer.

Almost 24 hours later, a detailed inspection under direct lighting revealed a few localized areas with insufficient color coverage:

— Upper section of the left door
— Upper section of the left pillar
— Right rear corner of the rear body section

The surfaces were smooth, with no runs, reactions or physical defects—only localized dark mottling where the color had not developed uniformly.

Instead of sanding or restarting the entire paint process, I allowed the K306 to cure and approached each section carefully using a standard 0.3 mm airbrush.

The correction was built gradually:

— Light, controlled passes over the complete affected section
— Proper flash time between applications
— Each pass extended beyond the visible defect to blend naturally into the surrounding color
— Constant inspection from different angles to preserve the metallic orientation and overall tone

These before-and-after photos show exactly why patience matters. The objective was never to bury the problem under more paint, but to restore uniform coverage without disturbing the depth and brightness already achieved.

The corrections are progressing well, and the Miura is getting back exactly where it needs to be.

This is the side of scale modeling that is not always shown: small problems appear, decisions must be made, and sometimes the most valuable part of the build is learning how to recover cleanly.

How do you approach localized repairs on metallic or translucent finishes?

The goal remains the same: a championship-level finish.

Its so satisfying when things comes challenging and succesful as well

I've been so busy lately that I haven't been able to make much progress on this build.

To be honest, uploading every week has become quite stressful. Building scale models isn't something that always moves at a steady pace. Sometimes everything comes together quickly, but when life gets busy, progress can slow down to almost a standstill.

I hope to get back to it soon. Thanks for your patience and support! 😊

The rear cowl can be just as challenging to fit as the front cowl, but there is a handy alternative: the clear cowl.

Aoshima included clear front and rear cowl parts as a bonus in the international release of the kit.

Judging by how accurately the clear parts fit, the molds themselves appear to be engineered with great precision. The main issue seems to be that the white body parts are much more prone to deformation.

You can bend the rear cowl to make it fit properly. Personally, I'd probably take the easier route and use the clear cowl instead.

Next update: Checking the ride height

Continuing with the carbon fiber work, I was going to add it to the spoiler, but the design made it quite difficult to install since it's two parts that came as a single piece. So I cut it in two. Once separated, I made patterns with masking tape and cut them out from the decal sheet, then applied them using the normal procedure. Finally, to join the pieces together again, I used two types of cyanoacrylate. First, I used the ultra-liquid type to glue the supports. I used this because it cuts quickly between the pieces, reducing the likelihood of going where you shouldn't. Second, I used the black cyanoacrylate to join other parts that needed filling in gaps. Being black, it blends in well with the carbon fiber.

After the problem with the clear coat, which required removing the old paint with brake fluid, I only had time to work on the interior and some decals. Here I applied the carbon fiber door decals. They weren't included in the kit, so I applied them after making patterns with masking tape and cutting them from the decal sheet.

Playlist: https://youtube.com/playlist?list=PLXELaVoB016ij2t_eCHHCzVjCIdbXjATE&si=R53u83Ma7Tt2wDjV

The John Wick Chevelle is a great kit. It comes with a stock and custom engine build up. I definitely went with the custom supercharged V8. I used Keleido metallic colors and primary colors to bring this engine to life. Tamiya Panel Line Accent was used to give the engine a more realistic look.