Andrzej Jaros

I had planned to work on some body parts and photo-etched details today. Unfortunately, the room temperature is too high; even heavily thinned primer dries in mid-air, creating clumps on the surface. I’ll have to wait for it to cool down. The decals I ordered should arrive soon, though, so I’ll be able to get some work done even if it stays hot.

Just a small update on the interior finishing today. I fabricated and painted the roll cage and added the markings to the seatbelts. Now, it’s just a matter of waiting for the ordered decals to arrive. I might also do a bit more work on the wheels in the meantime.

I really made some headway today and got practically the whole interior sorted out. I started with the dashboard, door panels, and floor, painting them with Zero Paints' black textured paint. The result? It looks really cool—exactly the look I was aiming for, avoiding that artificial plastic feel.
Once the textured paint had dried, I moved on to the details (a quick note here: Zero Paints' textured paints can be quite aggressive, so you need to apply them in several very thin layers). I applied the gauge decals to the dashboard, then added some color to break up the darkness. I painted a few elements—including the center console and seat frame—in a vibrant Tamiya orange. The remaining small parts and the rear bulkhead got a coat of Tamiya’s classic semi-gloss finish to tie everything together nicely.
In the meantime, I decided the kit decals for the seatbelts looked a bit weak; taking the easy way out wasn't an option. I chose to scratch-build them using real fabric. It was a bit of a fiddly job, I admit, but I think the final result turned out pretty well—they look miles better than the flat kit stickers! Everything fit perfectly. I still plan to add the brand-name decals onto the belts.
I still have the roll cage, rearview mirror, and headrest to assemble and install. Once those are in place, the interior will be completely finished.

I took a relaxed approach to the project today. I applied a Mr. Hobby gray primer, followed by a Zeropaints black base coat, as well as Tamiya LP5 and X-6 on certain parts. I also did some prep work on the fire extinguisher. Soon, I’ll start working on the dashboard, the seat—which requires installing the seatbelts—and the roll cage.

Day 5 – Chassis Complete!
Hi there! Time to recap day five of my model-building journey. Work on the chassis is finished; today’s session was intense but highly rewarding.
The main task was installing the final missing components of the drivetrain and suspension. I tackled the tie rods, drive shafts, and key elements of the suspension beam.
Before everything went into place, however, I focused on the braking system. To boost the realism, I used metal parts from a dedicated photo-etched detail set for the brake discs. The metallic sheen of the etched parts looks fantastic compared to standard plastic.
The brake calipers, however, were the most fun to work on. I decided to bring them to life using a simple modeling technique: dry brushing. By lightly highlighting the edges with a lighter paint, the calipers gained depth and a slightly worn look, significantly enhancing their realism. In the close-ups, you can see how this technique brought out the details against the matte black surface.
The final step was assembling all these components into the black chassis tub. The photos show the finished underside of the model, featuring the installed engine, the intricate-looking exhaust system, and the complete suspension. Everything is securely in place.
I’m wrapping up the chassis now; for the coming days, I plan to start work on the interior—there’s plenty of painting and detailing ahead. See you in the next update!

A video showing the work completed on the project so far.

Another day at the workbench is behind me, and today’s stage demanded considerable patience, precision, and the use of reliable materials. The chassis and drivetrain section took center stage.
🎨 Masking and painting (Alclad in action!)

The main task for today was painting the chassis and the engine (or rather, its visible half), along with ancillary components: the manifolds, turbocharger, and exhaust system.

The manufacturer threw a bit of a challenge my way with this model—the engine is molded as a single piece with the chassis. To paint it properly and achieve clean color separation, I had to meticulously mask off the surrounding area. It took some effort with the masking tape, but it paid off.

I painted all the metal engine parts, the turbo, and the exhaust using Alclad metalizers. Anyone who has used them knows they deliver a fantastic, incredibly realistic metal finish with a fine grain. The color transitions came out crisp, and the drivetrain section looks great now!
🔩 Front suspension

While the rear sections were drying, I turned my attention to the front. I assembled the front shock absorbers and connected them with the tie rod. The suspension is really starting to take shape.
📐 The dry run (Dry-fit)

Having learned from experience, once all the parts had dried, I moved on to a crucial test. I performed a "dry fit" to see how the chassis aligns with the bodywork.

Verdict: Everything fits perfectly! The fit is flawless, so there shouldn't be any nasty surprises or stress during the final assembly stage. I consider today a great success. The Alclad paints did the job, and the clean fit inspires optimism for the days of work ahead. Check back tomorrow!

Day three of work on the Porsche 935 K3 model marked the completion of the first key stage regarding bodywork preparation and the verification of aftermarket upgrade parts.
1. Painting and bodywork preparation

The primary task was applying the base coat to the exterior body panels. For this purpose, I used a dedicated paint from Creative Colors (Cat. No. CC-0323 Orange Jägermeister).

Process details: The paint was applied evenly over a previously prepared and degreased primer layer. The paint offers good coverage and accurately reproduces the period-correct shade.

Status: The body surface is smooth, free of impurities, and fully prepared for the next stage: applying the kit decals. The bodywork has been set aside to allow the finish to dry and cure completely.

2. Verification of photo-etched parts

While the paint was drying, I reviewed the additional aftermarket materials I had gathered. I inspected the purchased photo-etched parts set for consistency with the instructions and to assess assembly complexity. The components (including air intake meshes, seatbelts, and brake disc details) show no manufacturing defects. They have been sorted and prepared for installation as the build progresses.
3. Action plan for the coming days

With the main body painting complete, the project's focus now shifts to mechanical components and the interior. In the upcoming stages of this build log, I will focus on:

Assembling and detailing the chassis and suspension components. Assembly and painting of the engine block, including ancillaries and the turbocharging system.

Work on the cockpit (installation of the roll cage, driver's seat, and wiring).

Work on the body has begun!

The first coat of primer was applied to the model today. The final vision for the base color is still developing in my head, so I decided on a safe and versatile choice – classic white. This gives me complete freedom in choosing the final paint, and the primer itself will beautifully enhance the depth of any color.

Before I get started on the actual painting, however, I still have some "dirty work" to do. I still need to finish the panel lines and sand and smooth the joints on the tailgate. Once I've finalized these details, I'll set the body aside to let it dry thoroughly while I tackle the chassis, suspension, and all the other mechanical components.

As an added bonus, a small update is coming to the project – the custom photoetched parts have just arrived. We'll see which elements I can successfully adapt and how much they enhance the final detail. Fingers crossed!

🛠️ Workshop at the Workshop: Day 1 – Fitting the Body and Reverse Assembly

The first day of work on the project saw a departure from the standard procedure suggested by the manufacturer's instructions. I decided to reverse the assembly process and start with the final stage, namely, body preparation.

My priority at this stage is to conduct a complete dry-fitting of all body components, followed by gluing and painting.
Why is the bodywork a priority?

In this kit, the body geometry dictates the conditions for all other components. The adoption of the "bodywork-first" strategy stems from pure modeling pragmatics:

Elimination of stress and fit errors: Performing modifications on clean plastic allows for the free use of filler, aggressive sanding, or correction of panel parting lines without the risk of damaging finished interior or suspension components.

Paint Base: A perfectly prepared surface, free from injection mold seams and shrinkage cavities, is essential for applying an even primer, base coat, and 2K clear coat.

Domino Effect: Precisely determining the caster mounting points ensures that the chassis, roll cage/interior, and transparent elements (windows, headlight lenses) will fit perfectly in later stages, without the need for forced fit.

Scope of work performed on Day 1:

Removal of process flash and preliminary marking of parting lines (deepening the lines with a miniscraper).

Initial dry fitting of body components (bumpers, spoilers) using Tamiya tape.

Analysis of the contact points between the chassis and the floor pan to detect potential geometrical conflicts.

The foundation for further paint work was prepared. The next step: final gluing of the chassis components, priming, and locating any potential imperfections for correction.