Marudek

The next step is making the panniers. The model comes with two versions: metal Packtashe and leather side bags. The metal containers can be made open. It will probably take some work to make the latches with 3D printed part and supplied wire and pattern for proper bending. I'll keep them as an upgrade for some Italieri model.

I'll make leather panniers for my DKW NZ-350, as they don't yet appear on any of the motorcycles in my collection. I like the padlocks that come with the kit. I'll try to paint them to match the worn and rusty look.

Hi, I didn’t have much time but managed to assemble the back seat base. It consists of quite a lot pieces including metal springs for the passenger seat frame. I like that there are also optional parts - like the grab handles for the passenger. I think I’ll go for the wooden one. There are also two different types of the panniers. The metal Packtasche and leather bags. I like the leather ones because there are even the stitching lines moulded on them and the kit contains padlocks which can be assembled as locked or open. They are printed separately so will be fun to paint and weather them.

I’ve glued in the back seat base. Only the clamps holding the panniers in place are dry-fitted. Seeing the result I couldn’t resist dry-fitting the rear wheel.

Hi,

I continue to build my 1:9 scale DKW NZ-350 from Green19. This time maybe not much, but I’ve managed to assemble the front fender. Again, the fit is perfect. I just had to sand down some visible layer steps. I can imagine that for this kind of part there is no perfect positioning, and the layers will show whatever you do. Fortunately it is easy to solve as there are no tiny pieces printed together with the fender but smooth surface easy to run along with a sanding sponge.

This episode will feature a lot of detail: the carburetor, air filter, battery, horn, and electrical box. The battery comes with a strip of aluminum tape to which the clip, which is beautifully printed in one piece, needs to be attached. I had to think for a while about the correct order to cut the supports so as not to damage the delicate parts of the clip and key.

The air filter clip parts need to be made from the included 0.3 mm wire, using the template included in the ziplock bag with wires.

I also managed to assemble the rear fender. The fender mounts and rear license plate are dry-fitted for now.

Hello, in this section, I'll present the assembly of the engine. The instructions detail all the steps for assembling the cylinder, which is cut into slices and connected by brass wires that are included in the kit.

The only thing I changed were the vertical flat bars that fit into the top of the cylinder – I didn't use printed parts, but cut a narrow strip of aluminum sheet and threaded four of them through the holes in the plates.

In this episode I managed to assemble the fuel tank. Unfortunately, it wasn't without its challenges. Firstly, you can't install the fuel tank with the front suspension already installed. I skipped that step in the instructions because I couldn't wait to see the complete frame. Now I had to disassemble the front suspension to glue the tank in. It wasn't easy, because the whole thing is glued with CA, but I managed to cleanly separate the glued parts and then glue them back together.

I don't know if I glued something wrong, but to get the fuel tank onto the frame, I had to sand it a bit on the top with a nail file.

I'm not gluing the gear shift and its knob in yet, as they'll be painted separately.

This time, my build report for the 1:9 scale DKW NZ-350 may be limited in parts, but it's packed with detail. There are footpegs, an engine mount with crash protection on one side and a side stand on the other. There's also a mud scraper and a toolbox. The driver and passenger footpegs are very detailed. For now, they're only dry-fitted because I'll be painting the rubber parts separately. The same goes for the engine mounts on the left side of the frame – they're not glued on yet because it could make mounting the engine difficult. The instructions don't mention them until after the engine assembly stage, but I try to prepare all the parts that will be painted the same color at the same time.

This time, I'd like to show you how I assembled the frame parts. I permanently glued the center stand in place, although you could try gluing in 1.5mm rods instead of the standard screws and using the cut-off screw heads to mask the metal rods.

Finally, I glued the frame to the front fork. Everything fits perfectly. I haven't permanently glued the handlebars because I don't know how I'll position the model on the stand yet. It will definitely stand on the center stand, but what will be hung on the handlebars and how it will be positioned is still to be determined.

In this part of my report, I'd like to show you the process of installing the rear wheel spokes. I'm glad I did the front wheel first, as it was easier and helped me get the hang of it. On the rear wheel, you need to weave the spokes on both sides of the hub. For now, the brake drum, its cover, and the chain are dry-assembled. This ensures everything fits properly and reduces the risk of losing anything. Before painting, I'll disassemble everything, which will make the subsequent painting steps much easier.

In this section, I'll show you how I spoked the front wheel. The attached photos show the parts for this stage. They include 3D-printed parts, 2mm diameter brass tubes, and metal spokes in 8 bags clearly marked with the wheel and stage they are intended for.

One of the photos also shows the tools I used to perform the spoke job. The following photos show the individual stages, from the first spoke to the last. I also tried a tire fitting.