Dannyelyto

Hello everyone! I’m super excited to present my version of He-Man for this contest. This is a very special piece for me for several reasons. First, because it’s the second figure I’ve painted while trying to reach a semi-professional level, and second, and most importantly, it’s the first time I’ve dared to enter a contest with one of my works.

I’m really happy with the final result. Truth be told, at the beginning of the project I doubted whether I’d be able to pull it off on my own, but thanks to the incredible support, advice, and chats with fellow members of the RAW2REAL community, I managed to finish it. Thank you so much for the push, guys!

For this project, I combined 3D printing for both the figure and the base (which I made myself) with a painting technique using an arsenal of "budget-friendly" materials. As you can see in the attached image, I used Vallejo paints to bring He-Man to life, but the bulk of my painting gear consists of synthetic brushes bought from AliExpress, Temu, and dollar stores. Proving that with enthusiasm and accessible resources, you can achieve great things!

The whole experience has been amazing and I’ve learned so much in the process. I can’t wait to see the rest of the entries and keep improving.

Best regards to all hobby lovers!

¡Hola a tod@s! Estoy súper emocionado de presentar mi versión de He-Man para este concurso. Esta es una pieza muy especial para mí por varias razones. Primero, porque es la segunda figura que pinto intentando alcanzar un nivel semiprofesional, y segundo, y más importante, es la primera vez que me animo a participar en un concurso con uno de mis trabajos.

El resultado final me tiene realmente contento. La verdad es que al principio del proyecto dudaba de si sería capaz de sacarlo adelante yo solo, pero gracias al increíble apoyo, los consejos y las charlas con los compañeros de la comunidad de RAW2REAL, he logrado terminarlo. ¡Muchísimas gracias por vuestro empuje, chicos!

Para este proyecto, he combinado la impresión 3D de la propia figura y la base (hecha por mí mismo) con una técnica de pintado usando un arsenal de materiales de "bajo coste". Como podéis ver en la imagen adjunta, he utilizado pinturas Vallejo para dar color y vida a He-Man, pero el grueso de mi equipo de pintura se compone de pinceles sintéticos comprados en AliExpress, Temu y tiendas de todo a un euro. ¡Demostrando que con ganas y recursos accesibles se pueden lograr grandes cosas!

Toda la experiencia ha sido increíble y he aprendido muchísimo en el proceso. Estoy impaciente por ver el resto de participaciones y seguir mejorando.

¡Un saludo a todos los amantes del hobby!

Hey everyone! Bringing you another update on my contest entry. As you can see in the photo, it's really starting to take shape, but there’s still a long way to go. BY THE POWER... and a whole lot of work! 👇

Honestly, the waist and belt area is turning out to be the trickiest part to paint so far. There are so many nooks, buckles, and different textures (leather, metal, fur) that defining everything is taking a lot of patience.

The leather parts still need plenty of love; I’m planning to add weathering, scratches, and wear-and-tear details so this He-Man looks like he’s survived a thousand battles rather than just walking out of the box.

It’s not all a struggle, though! This project is my first real dive into metallic paints, and I have to say I’m super happy with the results! I'm loving how they react.

In fact, to push it a bit further, I decided to thin them with Gloss Medium instead of water or standard thinner. This gave me an extra shine and a slicker finish on the metal areas (like the chest harness and buckles)—perfect for a hero of Eternia.

Still lots left to do (the head is the next big challenge), but I'm enjoying every single brushstroke! What do you think of the progress so far? Any tips for weathering leather? Let me know in the comments!

Hi everyone! Things got a bit hectic on a personal level this week, so I haven't been able to make any progress on the project.

The brushes and workbench had to take a back seat for a few days, but the motivation is still 100% there. As soon as things settle down, I'll be back at it to give it that final push.

Thanks everyone for your understanding and support! I promise to bring you new updates very soon. 🖌️✨

Prince Adam is about to raise his sword! Here is a progress update on my He-Man. I've applied the first skin tones to those legendary muscles, and the harness is ready to shine. The rocky base with the skull already gives off those Snake Mountain or Castle Grayskull outskirts vibes!

​🕵️‍♂️ Behind the scenes: Take a quick look at the belt area... it’s not what it seems! The piece you see attached in the photo is actually a discarded test print.

​I used it temporarily as a "stand-in" to check proportions and overall fit while the definitive waist piece (the real deal, full of detail!) was drying after being primed. This allowed me to visualize the complete figure without losing any time! Just part of the modeling process.

​Soon you'll see He-Man with his final gear and in full color! What do you think of the pose so far? 👇

Kicking things off in the contest! 🚀 Here’s a progress update on my project after the first painting session.

I focused on laying down the base tones for the skin to start defining the musculature and build up that necessary warm base layer. Even though this is still in the very early stages and the highlights and final glazes are yet to come, I think it's coming along really well so far!

It's all about patience, but the results are starting to show. What do you think of this initial color pass? 👇

✅ 3D Printing Phase: COMPLETE.

After hours of printing and prep work, all the pieces are finally ready. Time to put the printer on pause and break out the brushes! 🖌️

We’ve started working on the base and the skull you see in the picture. Our main goal for this stage has been realism and texture:

💀 The Skull: We didn’t want a clean, fresh bone look. We applied paint layers and weathering techniques to simulate accumulated grime, aging, and that weathered, yellowish look worn down by the elements.

🏜️ The Terrain (Base): The base isn't just a stand; it tells a story. We worked on the erosion of the rocky ground, using reddish and earthy tones to mimic a harsh canyon or desert landscape where the stone has been heavily worn away. You can almost feel the dust!

This is just the ground layer of the diorama, but we can't wait to show you how everything fits together. Really happy with how the textures are coming along.

What do you think of the weathering effect so far? Let me know in the comments! 👇

Hello again, everyone! 👋

If you’ve been following my previous posts, you know what a headache the cloak on this figure was giving me. That darn combination of the chain and side clasps was almost impossible to get with a good finish if I tried printing the whole piece in a single orientation.

But after countless tests and a few failed attempts, I’ve finally found the ultimate solution! 💡

The Strategy: Divide and Conquer

The only way to get the chain and clasps to come out decent, clean, and sharp (just look at the result in the photo!) was to cut the cloak into two parts before sending it to print.

Why Did This Solution Work?

• Optimal Orientation for Every Detail: By separating the clasp and chain area from the rest of the cloak, I was able to orient this delicate section in the ideal position. This prevents the links from hanging in mid-air or getting squished against the build plate.
• Zero Problematic Supports on Visible Areas: Since I didn't have to place intrusive supports under the chain, the finest areas kept their perfect geometry without breaking during cleanup.
• Saves Time and Material: No more multi-hour prints ending up in the trash. Splitting the model in the slicer/3D software takes a couple of minutes and guarantees a flawless result on the first try.

The Result:

As you can see in the image, the chain links are perfectly defined, and the clasps show all their details without any blobs or warping. Now all that's left is joining the parts, a little sanding on the seam, and off to painting! 🎨✨

Tip of the day: Don't be afraid to slice up your 3D models if a specific area is giving you trouble. Sometimes, "divide and conquer" is the golden rule in FDM printing.

I hope this trick helps you with your next complex projects! Do you usually split tricky parts too, or do you prefer fighting with supports until the bitter end? Let me know in the comments!

Hi everyone in the 3D printing community! 👋 As you know, the Ender 3 V3 SE is an incredibly versatile and capable machine, but today I want to share a project that is truly putting my skills (and my patience) to the test.

This impressive warrior figure (just look at the attached photo, figura.jpeg!) has been an amazing project to work on, but printing the cloak has been... let's just say, a massive challenge. Despite dialing in settings and following community tips, this specific part is proving to be highly difficult to get right on my setup.

Why Is this Cloak So Difficult to Print?

The complex geometry of the cloak—with its intricate folds, flowing fabric look, and the way it needs to attach to the main body—makes it a nightmare for overhangs. Finding the right balance between clean surface finish, stability on the bed, and easy-to-remove supports without scarring the print has turned this into a real headache.

The Printing Battle: Steps and Setbacks

• Step 1: Slicing Strategies: I've spent hours adjusting support structures (trying both organic/tree supports and traditional ones) to find the perfect orientation that doesn't ruin the texture.
• Step 2: Bed Adhesion and Overhangs: Because of the Ender 3 V3 SE's high speed, the tall, thin sections of the cloak tend to wobble or lose adhesion if the supports aren't perfectly anchored.
• Step 3: Fine-Tuning: I've had to tweak temperatures, retraction settings, and print speeds layer by layer just to prevent the dreaded stringing or shifting in the most detailed areas.

Lessons Learned So Far:

• Patience is Key: Complex figures like this remind us that 3D printing isn't always "plug and play." Some models demand that you truly understand your printer's limits.
• Support Customization: Standard auto-generated supports just don't cut it here; painting custom supports manually in the slicer is a must for parts this intricate.
• Community Wisdom: Don't hesitate to look up how others have oriented similar heavy-overhang pieces.

Conclusion:

The main figure turned out absolutely spectacular, but this cloak is giving my Ender 3 V3 SE a run for its money! It's proving to be a tough battle, but that's exactly what makes this hobby so rewarding.

Wish me luck on the next attempt! If you have any pro-tips for printing complex capes or tricky overhangs on the V3 SE, please let me know in the comments below!

Hi everyone! Today I want to share an example that perfectly illustrates why part orientation is critical to the success of a 3D print.

The Case: A Cloak with Chain and Clasps

In the attached image, capa.jpeg, you can see a printed piece consisting of a cloak with a chain and side clasps. The orientation of the part during printing was flawed: it was placed so that the chain rested directly on the print bed.

The Consequences:

• Poor Print Quality: As you can see, both the chain and the side clasps ended up very poorly printed. The lack of proper support and material accumulation caused these fine, delicate details to fail.
• Useless Part: The poor state of the chain and clasps makes the entire piece useless. It cannot be used for its intended purpose, resulting in a waste of both time and material.

Why Is Orientation So Important?

Part orientation affects several key aspects of 3D printing:

• Overhangs and Supports: Proper orientation minimizes the need for support structures on visible surfaces and prevents suspended parts from sagging or collapsing.
• Layer Adhesion and Strength: The direction of the layers determines the mechanical strength of the piece. Orienting it correctly ensures it can withstand forces where it needs to.
• Surface Finish: Orientation directly impacts surface quality; areas facing upwards or printed vertically generally look much cleaner than those relying on heavy support material beneath them.

Lessons Learned:

• Pre-Print Planning: Before hitting print, it is essential to analyze the geometry of the part and determine the best orientation to optimize quality and minimize defects.
• Slicer Software Analysis: Use your slicing software to preview the print layer by layer, checking how overhangs and details like the chain will be supported.
• Experience and Trial: Learning how different geometries react to orientation is a matter of practice, but analyzing failures like this one helps us make much better decisions for future projects.

Conclusion:

Part orientation is a fundamental factor in 3D printing. A small change in how you rotate your model on the bed can mean the difference between a perfect print and a failed, useless piece. Don't underestimate the power of orientation—spend those extra few minutes planning your print layout!

Thanks for reading! If you have any questions or want to share your own experiences with orientation fails, feel free to leave a comment below!